We arrive in London April 8th & 9th: I love going on vacation. It's air travel that I cannot stand. My first experiences in traveling by air were exciting adventures. Now however, due to security concerns (the after effects of 9/11), cost cutting measures by struggling airlines, the vagaries of delayed flights and lost luggage, air travel has become something akin to a trip to the dentist. When we checked in the Continental counter at Detroit Metropolitan Airport, we were informed that our flight would be two hours late. The delay would cause us to miss our connecting flight in Newark, New Jersey. But due to the helpfulness of our check- in agent, also named Jeri, we got booked on an earlier flight to Newark. The overnight flight to London was long but uneventful. Jeri watched "The Curious Case of Benjamin Button" on the airplane, which proved to be quite a long movie. My headphones didn't work properly so I played a few games of Mah Jong solitaire on the seat back entertainment system and got some sleep. Jeri had just closed her eyes to get some sleep when the stewardess came through the cabin with breakfast. As it was morning in Great Britain and we would not be able to check into our hotel room until later in the afternoon, we were forced to operate on the little bit of sleep that we managed to grab on the plane. After fortifying ourselves with a quick cleanup in the airplane lavatory and cups of hot tea, we were ready to tackle the London Underground. On paper the tube system in London is a multi-colored spaghetti-like tangle that can be intimidating to neophytes. Some years ago we had successfully navigated the Washington D.C. Metro trains so we were not wholly operating in unfamiliar territory. The Piccadilly Line is the only train out to Heathrow Airport, so once we figured out how to purchase a ticket, we were on our way. The ride from Heathrow to our transfer at Earl's Court took about 30 minutes, giving us ample opportunity to view the suburbs of London that we passed through. I was surprised at the age and architecture of the row houses that flashed by. The only newer structures that I saw were commercial and there were very few of those. Almost all of the buildings were brick, block or stone, many with slate roofs; a totally different feel than traveling through most American suburbs. This would prove to be the norm for our entire trip, even at the center of the cities and the villages that we visited in the English and Scottish countryside. Another fact that surprised me was how little actual English I heard our fellow tube travelers using. I had imagined everyone talking as though they had just stepped out of a BBC sitcom. Instead it was a mix of Italian, German, French, Russian and a host of other languages from all over the globe. We finally arrived at our hotel about midday. We were exhausted and it was a relief to drop our luggage in our room. We had heard that hotel rooms in London were tiny and this one was no exception. At least it was clean. Jeri did a lot of homework on the Trip Advisor website researching London hotels and some of them sounded pretty dubious. The Cardiff Hotel was on a quiet side street in the Paddington area of London and our room faced Norfolk Park. The daffodils and other spring flowers were all in bloom and the buds on the trees were already breaking out into leaves. The seasonal change in the southern area of Great Britain was about two weeks ahead of southern Michigan. The window boxes decorating the outside of the Cardiff Hotel had already been planted with geraniums, a welcome sight after our long winter. The Hotel staff let us check in early, so after we had freshened up we set out to explore the city of London
We were both famished so we stopped for lunch at a little Middle Eastern café named Limon around the corner from our hotel. Our meal of hummus, stuffed grape leaves, falafel, spicy beans and pastry triangles with goat cheese and herbs was excellent. Both of us had the fresh squeezed lemonade to drink with our meal. I have always been a big fan of Middle Eastern cuisine and I was very pleased with the quality and presentation of the food. Before our trip we had heard a number of horror stories about how terrible British food was, so we weren't quite sure what to expect. Little did I realize at that time how much of an adventure eating would prove to be.
A colleague who had spent a great deal of time in the U.K. gave me a few tips about the best thing to do in Britain if one has a limited amount of time. As we were only going to be in London on the first leg of our trip for less than two days we decided to take his advice and take a bus tour of central London. For the low cost of £45 we purchased tickets for the Big Bus Tour of the city. The advantage of the Big Bus was that you could hop on or hop off at any of the stops that the bus made and the tickets were good for a twenty-four hour period. The tour went round to all the major sights of the city including the London Eye (the big Ferris wheel on the bank of the River Thames), Buckingham Palace, Piccadilly Circus, Westminster Cathedral and Harrods, just to name a few, so it proved to be a great introduction to London. The weather was cold and windy but we decided to sit on the open top of the double-decker bus so I could take photographs of the sights that we passed. At the corner of Baker Street and Marylbone Road we got off the bus so I could take pictures of the Sherlock Holmes statue. Madame Tussaud's Wax museum was also at the Baker Street stop. The museum would have been interesting to see and warmer than the bus, but the line to get in went around the block. After I took a few pictures, we climbed back on the bus and continued our tour. Each seat was equipped with a headphone plug in so you could listen to an audio tour. Jeri listened to the commentary while I opted to keep shooting pictures. Occasionally she would call out facts about the places that we passed. "There's the Chinese Embassy," Jeri said as we passed a nondescript red brick building with a guard standing at the entrance. "Carnaby Street's right down there", Jeri cried, pointing to a small side street. "That's the street that was popular during the Beatle's era." "Do you want to get off?" I asked. "No, not now. It's almost teatime and I want to stop at the National Gallery for tea. I read about it in my book," she replied, referring to her book, The Tea Rooms of Britain. "We'll come back to it later." We never did. I suppose we'll have to do that on our next trip. When the bus arrived at Piccadilly Circus - sort of the Time's Square of London, we saw the statue of Eros and the lighted billboards and theater marquees that lit up the gray day. The area was the most crowded area of the city that we had seen so far. The rain started to drizzle down out of the sky about this time so we had to get out our umbrella, and huddle together for warmth because we were still in the open top of the bus. At Trafalgar Square we exited the bus and ran into the warm haven of the National Gallery. Most of the museums in Britain are free, although we did not find this out until later in our trip. The art gallery was packed with people. After a few inquiries we located the tearoom. To our disappointment we found that it was just a small cafeteria. They had a large display of very tasty looking cakes, cookies, tarts and pastries, so we decided that it would not be a total loss. Before we got in line, Jeri found another room behind the cafeteria that was the actual tearoom. Afternoon tea did not begin until 4 p.m. We were an hour early, so we went into the gallery and viewed a collection of paintings from the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries by artists such as Canaletto, Carravagio, Turner and Rembrandt and that was only in one small section of the museum. It would take days to view their entire collection. At 4 p.m. we went down for our first English tea.
The room was all done in dark walnut paneling, impressive for
a nice restaurant, but it lacked the quaintness of a tearoom or the grandeur of a place like the Ritz. We sat next to a very nice couple from Canada, who were on the last day of their vacation. Once they learned that we were in the U.K. to visit our daughter Erica, who is a harper, they informed us that they were from the same town as world renowned harper and recording artist Loreena McKennit. We ordered the Cream Tea, which came with a pot of English Breakfast tea, currant scones, clotted cream and strawberry jam. The tea was bagged, not loose leaf, which was disappointing, but it was still a good tea. The scones were the best part of the meal, lighter than most scones we've tried over the years. These were by far the best we had during our trip. After Tea we went back outside to find that the rain had stopped, so we once again boarded the bus and continued on our tour, passing Big Ben, Parliament and a variety of other sights that we decided to visit the next day. By the time we returned to our hotel we were exhausted from going over 24 hours with very little sleep. After a light supper we called it a day.
A Walk in the Park April 10th:
We both felt refreshed from a good nights sleep. There was no great pressure to get up early so
we took our time and went down to leisurely enjoy the complimentary breakfast that the hotel offered. For years I have heard horror stories about English cuisine but none so scary as the myths surrounding the Full English Breakfast. The hotel offered a small buffet of cereal, fruit, yogurt and plenty of toast. However, for those hardy souls who wished to brave uncharted waters there was the option to order a full English Breakfast! Jeri and I decided to swim with the sharks and try the meal, which consists of egg, bacon (actually the bacon is more like ham, what we refer to as 'bacon' the Brits call 'streaky bacon'), beans (think pork & beans), sausage, grilled tomato, and plenty of…toast. Toast in the U.K. comes to your table in a handy toast rack (see photo) which allows the toast to cool properly so the rock- hard pat of butter won't melt when you spread it on the bread (which can be ordered white or brown). The grilled tomato was sweet and quite novel. Beans, however, are not. The egg was not fried, but was somehow poached and cleverly disguised to resemble a fried egg. The bacon was the best part of the meal if you happen to not be a vegetarian. Fortunately the hotel had an outstanding selection of jams, curds, and marmalades to make cold toast palatable. Our flight to Edinburgh was that afternoon so we had only a few hours to use for sightseeing before we had to head to the airport. Our tickets for the Big Bus included a cruise on the River Thames. This sounded like a unique way to see the city. Rather than wait for the Big Bus and ride along it's circuitous route, we thought that we could make better time on foot and thus see more of the city "up close and personal". Hyde Park was a few blocks to the south of our hotel in Paddington so we decided to walk to the river, since it was not raining. We did go prepared however, with raincoats and umbrellas. In the center of London is Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, which have a total of 625 acres of green space offering Londoners and tourists a place to enjoy the outdoors. It has some formal gardens within its boundaries, bridal and bike paths and Speaker's Corner (a place where people can go on Sundays to get on their soapbox and pontificate about any subject). In 1536, an area of Hyde Park was given to King Henry VIII by the church to use as a hunting preserve. The park was opened for public use in 1637. Bisecting the park is the Long Water and the Serpentine, a man-made body of water that was created between 1727 and 1731 by King George II in the memory of his wife Queen Caroline. Our walk took us along the connected lakes where we had the pleasure of seeing and hearing a variety of birds, ducks, geese and swans. At the southeast corner of the park, aptly named Hyde Park Corner we crossed Knightsbridge and walked through Wellington Arch and entered another park. Green Park, much smaller than Hyde Park, borders the grounds of Buckingham Palace. After a short walk we exited the park at the gates of Buckingham Palace, which became the official residence of the British monarchy during the reign of Queen Victoria in 1837. We paused at the gates, along with scores of other tourists, to snap a few photos of ourselves with the palace as a backdrop. There were a few of the traditional Household Guards stationed before the palace along with two assault rifle-toting Bobbies who sternly eyed the crowd. We were too early for the Changing of the Guard, but we did catch a glimpse of that ceremony from the upper deck of the bus later in the day. The Queen Victoria Memorial stands before the gates of the Palace where the statue of Victoria stares regally down the Mall in the direction of the Admiralty Arch. The beautiful memorial was created in 1911 by the sculptor Sir Thomas Brock, featuring not only the Queen but the Angel of Truth and the Angel of Charity as well. On the pinnacle of the memorial the gold painted Angel of Victory rose triumphant over all. Once we had reached Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament we found Westminster Pier only moments before the Thames River Cruise cast off. As soon as we were on the water a cold drizzle began to seep from the sky driving us under the protective shelter at the bow of the flat riverboat. We passed below the Aquarium and London Eye and continued downstream past the Queen Elizabeth Hall on the south bank and Cleopatra's Needle to the north. The red sandstone needle was brought from Egypt and erected on the Victoria Embankment in 1878. The view from the river was not spectacular. The highlights of the trip were the WWII era naval vessel H.M.S. Belfast and Shakespeare's Globe Theatre. The bridges that we passed under were impressive; most notably Blackfriar's Bridge and the Tower Bridge where the cruise ended. The rain had let up by the time we disembarked at the London Bridge, so we paused for a few minutes and appreciated the enormous expanse of the Tower of London, the repository of the Crown Jewels. The Tower of London began construction in the early 1080's under the reign of William the Conquer and has a rich and bloody history. The square before the tower was packed with tourists and unfortunately our time was running short, so we were not able to visit. Once again we boarded the Big Bus to get back to the Cardiff Hotel, pick up our luggage and make a mad dash out to Heathrow via the Underground. It was time to go to Scotland and see our daughter. The British Airlines flight from London Heathrow to Edinburgh was full and Jeri and I were not able to sit together. I sat between an Italian man and a young man from Germany who was going to Edinburgh to see his girlfriend who lived there. The duration of the flight was only a little over an hour so it was a pleasant surprise when the flight attendant brought meals out to the passengers. It was mid-afternoon, we had not eaten since breakfast and I was famished. The meal consisted of a lamb pie with carrots and white mousse for desert. For airline food it was quite delicious. When we got off the airplane in Edinburgh, Jeri was indignant. She was upset that we had to sit apart, plus the flight attendant had never offered her a meal. I promised to take her somewhere for a bite as soon as we had found our way to Erica's flat. The shuttle bus from the airport to downtown Edinburgh was only £3. The trip took about twenty minutes and then we were stepping off the bus at Waverly Station. Neither of us had visited Edinburgh before so we only had Erica's address and a bus route map to guide us...